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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.